Stanley Korshak, Dallas’ renowned Temple of Fashion, recently granted us a brief, all-access pass into the firmament of Brunello Cucinelli, a rarified world defined by unimaginable lightness, incomparable softness and unparalleled quality. Cucinelli’s vision of Fall 2016 encompasses a necessary conversation between the casual and the chic, the masculine and the feminine... and between you and your bank account.
Does dressing like a lady mean dressing like a dowager? Not just No, but Hell No. Not at Stanley Korshak. And certainly not in Cucinelli. Disdaining the industry move towards shop now/buy now mediocrity, the designer says, “Luxe takes time to be made; it definitely doesn’t happen overnight.” And since true luxe is most certainly an investment in yourself, it is well worth the wait.
Enveloped in the sanctuary of Korshak’s plush courtyard, the breathtakingly private yet informal Italian Appertivo Cocktail Event was a late afternoon interactive trunk show. A masked violinist enhanced the ambiance that melded both the modern and 18th Centuries, while waiters offered antipasti and Prosecco, and guests could assess and caress the magnificence brought to life before them.
A typically restrained color palette of grays and blues, emphasized by a brilliant poppy red, populated the menu of alpacas, mohairs, brushed wools, cashmere fleeces, flannels, velours, and bouclés. Textured knits in the most delicate yarns enhanced their contrast when coupled with crisp poplins, taffetas and satins, and the concept of layering was explored, (sometimes even in reverse. A startling
streetwise-edge glinted throughout the delicacy of the collection, and masculine touches lightly flirted with androgyny.
Generously wide, softly tailored slate-colored pants gave an almost ath-leisure feel when paired with a hoodie - even if the pants were a navy windowpane plaid traced in tiny shimmering beads, and even if the hoodie was in sapphire blue mink. Cropped peg-leg trousers with liberal pleats reveal a boyish insouciance with an exquisitely-cut, kimono-sleeved dark plaid cashmere coat worn atop a red-and-white striped newsboy sweater.
A midnight blue double-breasted tuxedo jacket with a shimmering shawl collar courted a gossamer ballgown skirt that fell in handkerchief-like petals, while the structure of a bias-cut silk satin evening skirt was offset by an almost slouchy cashmere fleece hoodie. That same nubby fleece was transformed into a shawl-collared trench, as inviting as a warm bathrobe, engaged with sumptuously flowing white trousers and camisole. A cheeky red sweater with an exploded cable-knit was layered over a dandy-ish navy striped formal shirt, pleated gauchos and booties; and blue velvet pants with a matching cropped jacket were lavished with a voluminous red coat and deep blue fur scarf.
An inherent and overwhelming sense of 1940s and 1950s couture is the thread that brings the collection together: a simplicity that bespeaks sumptuousness, a sense of facing a brave new future, and a firm refusal of tradition and restriction. Now that’s worth investing in. Bravo, Cucinelli, and bravo, Stanley Korshak.
Shop Brunello Cucinelli at www.stanleykorshak.com