The F/W 2015-16 collection by Cuernavaca, Morelos, Mexico designer Jesús Giles, called Cenizas ("Ashes,") is as striking and severe as his black and white color palette. But it is meant to be that way. Says Giles, "From those inspiring struggles and stories of those women who were accused and oppressed by religious ideologies of the time, oppression that left the female powerless and in ashes. But like the legendary Phoenix that rises from the ashes, so does the awakening of the empowered and elegant businesswoman."
Clearly digging deeply into his Mexican heritage, Giles' designs reflect that heritage while continuing to introduce revolutionary shapes and styling. Exquisitely tailored, Giles plays with proportions in an intriguing and charming manner. The extremely high waists of the pants and skirts are offset by wide, cropped jackets, boleros, capes and blouses. Sleek and gorgeous, the elongated silhouettes are très dramatic.
A snow white cropped top is paired with high-waisted, wide legged pants and topped with an architecturally draped jacket. An fly-away, open-backed white blouse, shirred across the top of the bust for fit and worn over a mid-length, heavily gathered black dirndle-style skirt with a wide, knotted leather belt is casual enough, but makes a very bold statement.
Another snow white cropped blouse is sleeveless on one side, balanced by a graceful, multi-layered butterfly sleeve on the other. Worn over a full, gathered ballgown skirt bespeaks Giles' respect for his past. A cropped, sleeveless top is ultimately a wide flounce, higher in front than in back.
But the suits? Faaabulous. Edgy and serious, they are Giles' strongest point. A mid-length slim and soft skirt, slit practically to the waist, is the perfect foil for the magnificent squared-shouldered draped cape that only looks demure because of the flounces down the front, but is perhaps the most exotic and beautiful piece in the collection. A severely tailored, almost man-styled cutaway tailcoat over a floor-length slit skirt is as spectacular as one of Cristobal Balenciaga's iconic Infanta dresses. When I speak of Balenciaga, I refer to the original founder of the House of Balenciaga himself, not the current regime, which, though, glorious, bears little resemblance to the original. Did I really mention Maestro Balenciaga's name in a review about Giles? Yes. I did. Giles is that talented.
To learn more, please visit www.jesusgilesbrand.com | @jesusgilesbrand #JesusGilesBrand
CENIZAS FW ' 15/16 | Photo: Diego Fierce | Hair/MakeUp: Antonio Ruz | Styling: Varsot | Model: Vivian Villa @ParagonModelManagement