Mexican Designers Jesús Giles y Roberto Arellano stun again with their extraordinary vision of elegance and drama presented in their Trashumante (Nomad) collection. True to the brand’s aesthetic, they continues to execute a striking vision of feminine power in various tones of black. Sleek and gorgeous, the collection is inspired by the Woman of the Middle East, devaluated by extremist religious ideas from the ancient times until today, but still strong, beautiful and capable of breaking the stereotypes the society has placed on her.
The designs are the reinterpretation of the traditional burqa dress, but cut and deconstructed to convey the rebellion of spirit and the freedom of expression. The chains of constraints have been broken, the limits have been reset. The modern woman can cross a desert day and night, if it means reaching her goals. Jesus Giles doesn’t just tear the fabric of burqa, he is also tearing off the old skin to expose the purest essence of femininity.
Dramatic and sensual, the total looks in black represent oppression, while sparse infusions of red convey the allusion to blood and strength pulsing in the veins deep under the skin. The collection is diverse, ranging from jump suits to crop tops, dresses, pants and deconstructed skirts. Flowing skirts combined with crop tops are sensuous and revealing. Striking jump suits with daring cut outs speak both of revolt and vulnerability. Voluminous panels of sheer fabric cover and reveal the body simultaneously. All stereotypes are broken, all expectations are challenged. The pant with horizontally split leg in deep burgundy is probably the most striking design solution of the collection. It is the distinct representation of how societal norms can cripple and maim a human being.
The usage of accessories is absolutely brilliant. Oversized geometric earrings are the exclamation points in the text of the collection. They bring the tone to a higher level. Cuffs and hand jewelry are very well thought through as well. They elevate, yet suppress, you can’t help but be reminded of bondage and servitude. Fabulous, modern, irreverent – those are the words that come to mind when pondering the talents of designers Jesús Giles y Roberto Arellano… I am sure you would agree.