fashion Designers


Okay, here's the deal. I wrote about Portuguese-born Katty Xiomara last season. An impressive press kit of her many accomplishments is readily available online. I'd seen Xiamora's dresses at a private preview earlier this year and wrote a review of that collection, and viewed a number of other collections since then. It's good work with originality and a distinct flair for breaking traditional rules of proportion. But while appreciating the skill and craftsmanship of the signature work, Some of it, frankly, I just couldn't always understand the appeal of.

But this Katty Xiomara collection was unlike anything I'd ever seen from her before. Gone were some of the occasionally awkward plays on shape and proportion that draws the artsy customer. Gone were the cutesy, matchy-matchy ensembles that dominated seasons past. It's as if Katty Xiomara had recently experienced a life-changing transformation that has had an undeniable effect on her design sensibility.

A high-waisted zip-front panty-style short in black leather and an exposed front zipper is a basic of the collection, and a foundation upon which to create multiple looks. Irresistibly sexy by itself when worn with Xiomara's angular satin blouse and gorgeous hose, it becomes enticingly more seductive as it peeks out from under a tunic or wrap dress. For Katty, this piece seems a bit overly sexy, but there is no question that something is happening at the House of Xiomara... and that something is very good.

The below-the-knee wrap dress

in sheer black lace is at once classic and edgy - particularly during a spin when it reveals the lack leather panty. The scarlet red wrap dress in 4-ply silk crepe is jaw-dropping. Not only is red the most desirable color right now, but the fluidity of the cut, the wide, contoured belt, and the luxurious almost ankle-length hem? Unforgettable.

Bridging two approaches is the red and print color-blocked dress. Still with the essential geometric cut, the fabric has more body, and the compu-graphic print is a sharp contrast to red. With the addition of ivory satin cuffs on the short sleeves, a Peter Pan-ish collar, the dress evokes a reimagining of a waitress uniform in a quirky, whimsical manner.

In counterpoint, Xiamora also employs architectural shaping with plenty of detail. A fitted, Asian-styled, white, cap-sleeved blouse, for example, was corded in gold and quilted in a windowpane check (a major sensation in menswear right now). Paired with a crisp satin A-line skirt with an inverted center pleat, the Art Deco-ish geometric print is repeated throughout the collection, from this skirt to the aforementioned angularly-cut blouse, as well as in a stunning stroller length coat.

Model Roxanna Redfoot from The Campbell Agency, Hair & Make up: Beauty by Violet, Styling by Edwardo Flores & Michelle Claassen, Photographed by Ernesto Escobedo, Written by Stephen MacMillan Moser

To learn more visit #KattyXiomara #fashionscoop

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  • Stephen MacMillan Moser

    Love this. Another unmistakable Stephen MacMillan Moser story.