runway Runway

Christian Siriano: Spring/Summer 2016

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO captures nearly every important runway trend and reimagines them. In a somber color-palette of black, white, nude and platinum, he opens with a strong group of nude-colored (trend 1) duchess satin dresses, coats and jackets with an architectural styling (trend 2), or conversely, sculpturally draped in soft and deep folds divinely employing this not-very-forgiving fabric in exquisite fit. With the introduction of a nude-on-nude sheer organza stripe, the looks segued into pristine whiteness (trend 3) dramatically and fabulously.

The shapes became futuristic goddess silhouettes, strong and powerful shapes, that were all Siriano’s own. Imaginative and visionary, the white grouping melded into fringe (trend 4), introducing new added texture and detail. And all shoes and accessories are pure Siriano. Is this the PAYLESS collection? If so, it’s snappy and forward and accessible. Introducing fly-away panels (trend 5), Siriano plunged into a rough hand-painted kind of black stripe on

ivory, making the geometry of the lines into the focal point of a collection of simple and stunning almost HALSTON-ish shapes that are Siriano’s genius. The eveningwear was typically lavish, utilizing the classic sheath skirt shape (trend 6) as well as the handkerchief hem. As the platinum metallic silks with their burn-out patterning hit the runways, I was enchanted. The matlasse was sumptuous, and the all-white gowns and bridal pieces heralded the end of a stellar collection - especially the very conceptual cocoon-like swath of silk tulle… shown with very little else.

But...wait! What’s this I see lurking in the back? It’s...it’s color. Omigod, it’s true. Finishing off his gilded palette, he brought out a magnificently draped, tribal-inspired group of bright pastels in peach, blue, butter yellow and aqua. Simply breathtaking. Bravo, Siriano!

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