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JUST DUCKIE @DUCKIEBROWN

400;">"Everyone always says London400;">’s avant-garde, Paris400;"> is creative, and New York400;"> is just commercial,” Details400;"> fashion director Matthew Marden400;"> said. “But you can’t really say that after you’ve seen...Duckie Brown400;">.”  With its distorted volumes, acid palette and unexpected elegance, the show was almost unanimously a highlight of the NYFW:M400;">.

400;">Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox400;"> and Daniel Silver400;">'s mission is “dressing men beautifully," accomplished by hand tailoring, unique fabrics, and bold colors. The charmeuse and crepe de chine tunics, exaggeratedly voluminous trousers, and sheer organza shirts had clean and elegant lines, unexpectedly luxurious fabrics did not have a single whiff of the 'hood that so many other designers imbued their collections with this season.

400;">While still falling into the Upscale Athleisure400;"> category, Duckie Brown's S/S 2016400;"> collection paired silky, paper bag-waisted lounging trousers with soft, sheer tops to create an exaggerated silhouette that read like a more commercial, less radical version of what Alessandro Michele400;"> is doing at Gucci. The Duckie Brown partners are at best, unpredictable (classic jeans and t-shirts morphed into drapey, oversized, androgynous

lounge-y street wear - the ambiguity and androgeny trend flooded the runways this season). Not only the simple cuts and generous sizing could suggest this, but the salmon pink, denim blue, lilac, navy, and electric yellow color palette definitely took the collection out of the realm of the typical male... and beautifully. 

400;">Loosely cut Black organza zip front shirts, sheer white t-shirts and lounge-y paper bag waisted drawstring pants in black, white, gray, navy and yellow. The same sheer t-shirts were also shown  over voluminous but tailored high-waisted pants, and with awning striped shirts. A scoop neck silk crepe de chine 3/4-sleeve tunic in salmon, mint green and lilac striped short with lilac silk pants and shoes, just 400;">screamed 400;">Spring, as did the navy blue organza shirt trimmed with lilac, shown with silk lilac pants and shoes. The stunning and risky lilac color worked beautifully, especially as a crepe de chine tunic over voluminous black pants and brilliant, multicolored shoes.

400;">A black organza zip shirt was sharply trimmed in white, and another version trimmed in lilac was a breath of fresh air, along with the yellow and black anoraks with hoods that fell like cowls around the neck. Yellow and white was a brilliant combination at Duckie Brown - a vibrant yellow anorak worn backwards conjured up period styling; while the white translucent top paired vibrant yellow crepe de chine oversized pants, was, well, just Duckie. But the coupe de grace was the electric yellow thigh-length top coat over a white t-shirt and drapey yellow silk pants. Another monochromatic look that stole the show was ablack charmeuse jacket over black organza shirt with black crepe de chine pants.

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Photography by: DAN LECA - fashiontimes.com, Jim Duran & Gerardo Somosa