runway New York

Lanyu Spring/Summer 2017

Blossoming of spring wasn’t just seen, but felt at the Lan Yu’s SS 2017 collection showing in New York. Taking the cue from the magnificence and fragility of magnolia flowers, the label translated the inspiration quite literally by creating allusions to fluttering petals and the softest curves in a variety of feminine shapes. Lanyu brand is still fairly unknown globally, but Yu is a go-to designer for bridal and couture gowns in her native China. Presentations, such as this one in New York, provide an avenue towards international success. Dressing celebrities like Kim Kardashian doesn’t hurt either. She was noted to appear wearing Lanyu at the Cannes festival earlier this year.

The collection was very broad and included a variety of options – from super-feminine gowns to reserved suiting, from bridal to daywear. The magnolia blossom theme was translated into the mostly pastel colored palette, with the punctuations of black. Silks and organzas, floral lace, appliques and embroidery dominated the scene. There is a distinct blend of contemporary western design with the eastern aesthetic. Lan Yu utilizes traditional Chinese Su embroidery in her designs in hopes to keep the art-form alive in the 21st century, as well as honor the women of many generations of her family who preserved the rare skill.

Sheer paneling, open shouldered designs, plunging necklines in combination with super delicate and feminine details like bell sleeves, asymmetrical bows, and multi-layering create the presentation of beauty that is sensual and fragile. Lan Yu’s sexuality is neither loud, nor aggressive; it is the essence of a woman of the East.

Whether Ms. Yu will become a big success globally is yet to be seen, but she definitely made herself noticed. I believe we should keep a watch on what she has in store for us in the future. I surely will.

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