runway New York


If New York wasn’t ready for Lucio Castro last season, they’ll have no choice except to examine his work this season. Last season, we applauded the Argentine designer’s work for being fearless and touching on androgyny. This season, he plunged in head first. Gone were the ghetto sidewalk-dragging pants in favor of a narrower silhouette, and hems that often hit well above the ankle. It all looks preppy/nerdy from a distance (with a bit of Michael Jackson and Boy George thrown in)… and perhaps even more so close up.

Castro is no amateur - he knows exactly what he wants his clothes to look like. And if they look awkward or ungainly, you can bet that’s how he wanted it. His collection seems distantly related to Alessandro Michelle’s for Gucci. But better. Cleaner. Less pretentious. The green plaid wool culottes (or bifurcated skirts) have a casual, swingy, almost school-girlish attitude to them. A variation on the baggy short, this culotte suits the male

figure and is so well-designed that it hardly draws a second glance. At first. And Castro doesn’t cross over into frivolity like Gucci. If there is a two-spirit approach, it is a utilitarian, more primal approach that doesn’t seem to make fun of the concept.

Shirt cuffs drag across the tops of the fingers with jacket cuffs abbreviated or turned up. In a distinctly urban style, the pajama look makes a new appearance; so fresh and revolutionary, this concept is going to be around for awhile. The coats were key, and the highlight of Castro’s collection. In a slim, stylish mid-thigh length, they were either elongated baseball jackets or classically-styled Chesterfields. In suede, wools, vertical stripes or horizontal Hudson’s Bay-like stripes, they gave a retro-ish feel. Glam rock hair and oversized chain keyfobs accessorized the looks, and of course, every ensemble was worn with lace-up athleisure shoes. Castro scores again.

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Photography by: Courtesy of Lucio Castro FW16 'The Stonehenge Collection'