runway New York

MARCHESA: The Rhapsody of Air and Light

Marchesa SS17 – The rhapsody of air and light.

Marchesa, known for its delectable gowns seemed to have taken another step towards searing heights. If any little girl was dreaming of a fairy princess gown, she couldn’t have done better than picking one of Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman’s creations. The dresses of Spring Summer 2017 season shimmered and fluttered on the runway as if created of nothing but light and fairy dust. To be perfectly serious, the offering was stunning in its mixture of exuberance and restraint. The frothy, fluffy and voluminous shapes were counterbalanced by the restrained color palette of natural light: from dusty morning pink, to bright golden rays, to sparkling sky blue, to sundown dusk and finally midnight cool. Color notwithstanding, each gown was breathing, fluttering and gliding in the air, as if the wind itself was spun into the cloth.

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Voluminous skirts, trains and capes of cascading ruffles of tulle and organza amplified the affect of weightlessness and surreal beauty. To please their loyal followers, the collection included a fair share of heavily embellished gowns. Corsets, 3D flower appliqués, lame and embroidery were seen in abundance, but the designers also opted to include dresses that may appeal to a younger sensual crowd that leans more towards simplicity. Sheath designs with somewhat restrained decorations fell comfortably into this category. A tulle column dress in mint color with iridescent lame and lace elements and fluttering sleeves was one such example. Another very appealing element was incorporation of side cut-outs. This sexy detail added an edge to otherwise “princess”-y dress.

It is often difficult to define the style of Marchesa. Whatever one may want to say to describe it, it is never quite enough. The visual impact of the brand’s presence far outweighs any literary attempts at its definitions. Perhaps it is better not to try to do it at all, but simply give people a chance to see for themselves. A picture is worth a thousand words, and these pictures are simply stunning…