runway New York

Nicholas K F/W 2016

Lavish layering is not just a trend at Nicholas K, it’s pretty much their signature. Creative Director Nicholas Kunz and her brother Christopher Kunz (who did the clothes for The Hunger Games and Noah) upped the ante on their urban street-style looks by offering a new, more sophisticated approach not seen in previous seasons. Inspired by Arcosanti, a desert community begun by Frank Lloyd Wright disciple Paolo Soleri in the ’70s, Nicholas said, “When I saw it for the first time, what struck me is how modern it still feels, even though it was built in the ’70s. It’s nomadic, futuristic, and most important, it’s sustainable.”

A somewhat somber palette of black, gray (carbon, smoke and dust), brown (earth) and sand (desert and dunes), relieved only by shades of purple (monsoon, aubergine, nightshade, amethyst, iris and mauve) and a few prints, underscored the stark

styling and attenuated silhouettes. Multiple monochromatic ensembles expressed the slouchy elegance that characterized the gowns, capes and outerwear, and the layering seemed mind-bogglingly complex. Stand-outs included asymmetrical, off-one-shoulder tops over narrow ankle-length skirts with wide cumberbund-style belts; skirts and dresses styled as button-down shirts with sleeves tied around the body; and slim pants with multiple buckles at the ankle. Funnel-neck jackets were worn on top of mid-thigh tunics over pants; trench-inspired coats had mullet hemlines and enormous, almost Queen Anne-style collars; and chemise-style dresses and jumpsuits had draped coats and capes over them.

It was as if Mad Max met The Great Gatsby. Sounds strange? Forget it. It was perhaps one of the most truly innovative collections of the week - unpretentious, uncontrived, and stunningly beautiful. Shop Here