runway Runway

Lucid Dreams in Pure Poetry

Color was the strong suit, and details ran amok for London designer Roksanda Ilincic in her Roksanda Fall/Winter 2016-17 runway show. Eschewing the nearly-naked trend in evening wear doesn’t have to show it all - she has it all.

Composed in notes of petrol, burgundy, tobacco, damask pink, midnight navy, optic white, aqua, jade, turquoise and black, the exquisite collection was a melancholy operetta with arias that touched the heart and delighted the eyes. Silk satin, hammered silk, velvet, double-faced wool, cashmere, leather, suede, lurex knitwear, cotton shirting, paisley brocade, tulle, devore embroidery, organza, and shearling harmonized with melodic tailored jackets and shirts, flared legs and palazzo pants, high necklines, cinched waists, ankle-length skirts and dresses, fluttering voluminous sleeves, and hemlines from mid-thigh, to the floor, and everywhere in between.

Inspired by the cult classic film The Night Porter and the murky photographs of the legendary Deborah Turbeville, the collection harked back to the ladylike romanticism of the Seventies. Strict tailoring was offset with feminine accoutrement, such as the opening look of a slim-fitted

tobacco-colored coat, softened by a fetching red fox collar and tied with a velvet bow. A color-blocked satin blouse sported circular-cut ruffled flanges and collar. A dress in varying colored panels was trimmed with a sunburst-pleated Pierrot-style collar and cuffs.

Scallop-shaped piecing emerged in suede and velvet dresses, skirts and coats for daytime, as did multicolored intarsia knit bouclé sweaters, tunics and shirt-dresses. An amethyst ¾ sleeved astrakhan coat, which was inset with dyed-to-match sheared mink harlequin diamonds, was repeated later in sapphire blue. Gaiter-like leggings in suede-like velvet fit over the shoe and rose thigh-high.

Line drawings á la early Warhol informed a handful of mature novelty prints as day slipped into evening. Halter top gowns bled into flowing knife-pleated skirts, and sheer yet modest dresses displayed reverse layering. New for Roksanda were the purses, including velvet shoulder bags, geometric leather clutches and sleek satchels with jeweled hardware. Gold-plated jewelry was her own design. A true Renaissance woman, Ilincic presented one of the genuinely most beautiful shows of the season. Shop the looks here