runway New York


Opting for a more dramatic presentation rather than a runway show, Brett Johnson’s Sprezzatura collection is dynamite. Sprezzatura is defined as "a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it." The grouping is a respectful paen to the world’s power players and the concept of playing as hard as they work.

With an almost Western look, the clothes are hardly rough-and-tumble. Hand-made in Italy, the collection includes gently-fitted blazers; trousers with higher, slightly nipped-in waists; and substantial but fitted overcoats. Comprised of suedes, brushed cottons, cashmeres, high-performance nylons, and embossed nubuck leathers, all rendered in shades of fire, sky,

cobalt, midnight and loden, it was in fact a rather conservative but rich palette of earthy tones.

Each model had his own “plot” to reign over - an isolated, surreal patch of grass with a slab of cut tree-trunk as a pedestal, and the bare branches of a soon-to-be blooming tree behind them. The setting indicated the outdoorsy approach without having to spell it out in details that would have distracted from the clothes. It was a superlative presentation.

Notables in attendance at Johnson’s show included Neiman-MarcusKen Downing, Jay Emmanuel, June Ambrose, Sheila Johnson, Krystle Wilson, and Steve Kolb.