runway New York


Up the river with this collection - perhaps the Volga River or perhaps the Neva. Fall/Winter 2016-17 is all about Russia at HVRMINN (pronounced hur-MINN). Designer Minn Hur leads the pack as far as the military looks go - he does them bigger and better, yet less ostentatiously than some other designers.

It’s a simple collection, really, or rather two collections. Eponymvs consists of two and three-piece suits, softly tailored with slim, cropped pants; and Vietto is outerwear. Simple silhouettes and luxe fabrics enhance the grouping, in shades of gray, khaki, camel, brown, fatigue green, Prussian blue and purple. Yes, purple (the accent color for this Fall, apparently). The softly tailored suits are single-breasted with 2” cuffs on the narrow trousers, or double-breasted with no cuffs.

“My specialty is about finding the perfect balance between tailored clothes and military uniforms,”

says Hur. A stunning promo video called The Waltz shows Minn’s men preening and snarling in front of the camera as if it were a mirror. Gorgeous, masculine models of varying ages strut and purr in the suits; one style featured a knee-length suitcoat, while others had elastic half-waists. Accessorized with tone-on-tone button-down shirts and ties (or this season’s de rigueur turtlenecks), peaked flight caps, fur shapkas, and leather gloves, the looks were pure Dr. Zhivago redux.

The outerwear stole the show, however. A cropped, open-back flak vest in olive drab was worn over a suit, as was a lighter green bomber-style vest. Over a Glen plaid suit was a camel-colored suede Eisenhower jacket cropped to the ribs. A stunning mulberry-colored suede overcoat was one of many longer coats: mid-thigh, knee-length or mid-calf; notched or shawl-collared, they were among the best of the week.