Girl’s colors? Boy’s colors? What’s that sh*t about asks Donatella Versace in her new menswear collection. Space. That was her theme. “I’m thinking of the future,” said Ms. Versace. “This is the ultimate expression of the future: space.” To which Alexander Fury replied cleverly in Vogue, “For many, it’s the final frontier; for Donatella, it’s just another wardrobe option.”
It was indeed a prescient theme. Donatella knows that Space will have different wardrobe requirements, but the coincidence of having it in the same week as the deaths of David Bowie (whose song Space Oddity was the finale track) and André Courrèges (whose Space-inspired collections were pivotal in fashion history) was too coincidental to ignore. Donatella also knows that gender lines are being blurred in the earthly world too. Let the show begin.
The palette was spacey and dreamy – silver, gray, white, pale blue, navy blue, black… and lavender. Donatella don’t care. Versace has always been daring and non-traditional. Metallics, LEDs, reflective detailing, high performance fabrics were often utilized in luxurious chenille, cashmere, mohair sweaters; pull-over tops with pants; suits, jackets and overcoats.
The pants, of course, were key. Versace prides itself (like Calvin Klein used to) on accentuating the male ass-ets. Black leather with a myriad of various sized grommets and zippers that look like a circuit board; slim-fitted, sleek unadorned black or white leather with an almost invisible fly-front; plum colored leather flight pants; silver mylar space pants; white leather jeans-style with multicolored detailing; and a slew of beautifully-tailored trousers in luxurious wools.
The coats were to die for. Yes, there were plenty of wearable, exquisitely-tailored suits, but it was the jackets and coats worn over the suits that thrilled. A bomber jacket or flight jacket over the suit? Why not. Donatella don’t care. She even blurs the line between the bomber jacket, the flight jacket and the motorcycle jacket. The short jackets were in white leather, metallic silver shearling, black leather with multiple NASA and Versace patches, and a cropped-to-the-chest Prussian blue leather. But the longer coats had all the drama – a reversible pale blue double-faced wool, a white scientific-looking lab coat, a pale blue and white color-blocked topcoat, cobalt blue reversible to pale blue… Go on, Donatella!
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