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VETEMENTS: REALLY READY TO WEAR?

In VOGUE.COM’s review of VETEMENTS SPRING/SUMMER 2016 collection, critic SARAH MOWER writes that these are the clothes we really want to wear. Sarah, you’re usually spot-on, but perhaps we didn’t see the same show. The out-of-nowhere designers, brothers DEMNA and GURAM GVASALIA (Demna is an alumnus of MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA) do indeed run ramshackle on the runway with their visions of the modern fashionista, but it seems apparent that shock value was more important than fashion prognostication. In a collection rife with new interpretations, more than anything we see retreads of early Nineties trends - hugely oversized, purposely ill-fitted disasters. The true eyesores included snap-crotch bodysuit-styled t-shirts worn unsnapped and hanging out over the pants; plastic floral tablecloths made into aprons; sleeves that hung to the knees; black leather DHL uniforms; and neon brights. Androgyny ruled - not at all uncommon this season in many other designers’ collections - but combined with the ill-proportioned styles, came off as clownish. The welder’s apron was in the inspiration for many styles - not

especially attractive or flattering - shown in everything from black leather to royal blue canvas, and styled into not only aprons, but dresses, skirts and pants. There is imagination shown here, but we are missing any hint of sophistication (though that may well be the message the designers intended). Hoodies. Okay, hoodies. So 2006. Done, done, done, even when ostensibly reinvented. We see elongated hoodies with obi-like wraps, hoodies with sleeves to the knees, asymmetrical hoodies… not only done but dull, dull, dull. The most glaring abomination is a hot-pink, ill-fitting dress that appears to be distorted with some sort of padding on one side of the waist - a misguided attempt at a Nineties REI KAWAKUBO-ish detail that is artlessly employed. So, after viewing the collection, you tell us - are these really the clothes you want to wear? Probably not, but we will definitely see what one of the designer brothers, Demna, has up his sleeve, since he has now been appointed as ALEXANDER WANG’s successor at BALENCIAGA. We just can’t wait to see the KARDASHIAN KLAN sporting welder’s aprons.

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Photography by: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com