High-haired goddesses like Ronnie Spector, Priscilla Presley, The Shangri-Las, Nancy Sinatra, Tammy Wynette, Brigitte Bardot and Sharon Tate were channeled in this new starlet/streetwalker Fall/Winter 2016-17 collection by the devil-may-care genius Jeremy Scott. Beauty marks, AquaNet, fishnet hose and vinyl boots took us on a wild ride through the Sixties, eventually slamming on the brakes and dumping us unceremoniously (but deliriously) at the corner of Hollywood and Vine. In Nashville.
Westward Ho appeared to be Scott’s inspiration this season. Fringed leather pants, cropped denim jackets, satin shirtdresses with piping and gull-wing yokes, ultra-wide belts with rodeo trophy buckles, and guitar motifs populated the runway and dared the viewer to imagine differently. Cow prints, leopard, black and pink, and contrasting neon combinations were emblazoned with motifs as diverse as musical notes, Betty & Veronica-style drawings, pink Princess telephones and Ren & Stimpy. Two-piece ensembles ruled the night: crop-tops and miniskirts, skinny-ribbed sweaters and jumpers, biker jackets and matching pants, off-the-shoulder cropped sweaters and coordinated skirts, fur jackets and wrap skirts, you name it.
Scott told WWD, “I was inspired by cowgirls and poodles all gussied up for a night out,” He nailed it. . He told W Magazine that he was going for a “Dolly Parton on molly” vibe. Yeah. He got that right too. In spades. (Even if Vogue.com erred and said “Dali on molly.”) Karlie Kloss opened the show, dazzlingly, in a lime green leopard print shirtdress trimmed with black fake fur and canary yellow leather, with a matching bolero. Equally brilliant , Kloss closed the show in a black and pink Betty Rubble-style dress in color-changing sequins. In between streamed a pantheon of top glamour girls displaying everything from a black intarsia knit minidress adorned with purple, pink and blue planets; to a Cha Cha DiGregorio off-the-shoulder cropped sweater coupled with a very cropped skirt embellished with black beads the size of pingpong balls (sitting down is not an option for these racy, on-the-go girls); to metallic leather jackets, skirts and pants.
Oh, yeah, the retro-parade included some menswear too – less Sixties-ish and more Seventies-ish beefcake, wearing black leather pants and jackets encrusted with multi-colored crystals; bovine patterned pants with bright pastel sweatshirts embellished with images of hairspray cans, retractable-coil telephone cords, and paddle brushes; denim jeans and jackets with color-blocked pocket flaps and collars; and a shag-a-delic faux fur jacket in yellow and pink zebra with guitar-printed jeans.