runway New York

Zac Posen: From New York With Love

"Red. I might have known it would be red," raged the mother in the movie Carrie. Wailed Carrie, "It's not red, Mama, it's pink!" Well, at Zac Posen it was red. Cherry red. Chinese red. Scarlet red, crimson and cranberry. And there was plenty of gray, sometimes accented with a little green or pale blue with a faint green grid pattern... or just simple, plain, unrelieved gray. Zac thoroughly understands the concept that one single unrelieved color can be an enormous challenge, but an opportunity the show off the sculptural qualities of the the garment. Once he demonstrated that he was indeed a master architect of fabric, he amped it up halfway through the show. Once the serious Zac makes his presence known, he allows the mischievous Zac to take over and we are riveted.

The floor-length fluid silk skirts with various tops were enchanting, particularly the deep gold silk charmeuse skirt

topped with an exquisite long-sleeved evening blouse in deep gold dyed-to-match fur. Then the full, fluid skirts were replaced by column-shaped skirts and dresses that were generally much more structured, but somewhat fussier. The full, fluid skirts reappeared for Zac's finalé, as if Zac was required to do a couple of ballgowns... but many of the preceding looks were actually far more interesting.

When the ageless modeling gorgon Naomi Campbell made her stroll down the catwalk, she looked a bit like Glinda the Good Witch from The Wizard of Oz. The dress was really quite divine, with gorgeous silver-speckled red duchess satin strapless bodice and massive flanges of stiff satin spraying from the hips to form a voluminous skirt that harked back to the reign of Louis XVI. The complete lack of accessories underscored Zac's passion for letting the lines of the garment do all the talking.

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