runway New York


To die for. Simply to die for. Zang Toi is one of the most exciting designers around and he just seems to get better and better every season. A consummate showman, he deftly assembles a collection that takes your mind on multiple journeys, and lands you in a place of serene magnificence. From the opening sportswear separates in the colors of the forest, the styling itself suggested magical forest creatures. Zang immediately fast-forwards, retaining only the color scheme, to a sleek, sharp-dressed woman in smart pant suits or miniskirts and tights - powerful visages gliding by, underscoring the strength of the Zang customer. Among the most memorable looks was a black sheared mink micro-minidress over tights with a coat in the softest dyed-to-match lambskin draped over the shoulders. The fur factor carried over into the most faaabulous skinny black pants suits. With myriad variations, combining the chic attenuated silhouette with swags of precious pelts; to an asymmetrically draped black duchess satin tunic over matching pants; a man-tailored silk suit with generously-cut pants; a black velvet blazer over black velvet stovepipe-leg pants; and even into a black velvet maxi coat topping matching black velvet high-waisted hot pants. Here, Zang also rules. His sense of proportion can be as extreme as possible, but always perfect. The 1970s-ish combination of very long exposing very short could have been a mistake, but Zang’s deft hand knows exactly where to cut, and the ensemble came off as ultra-luxe cutting edge styling. Yeah, I pretty much screamed and swooned over that one. Zang is just so ridiculously talented, it’s almost not fair to pit him against

other designers. The metallic knit scoop-necked long-sleeved mini-dress was short enough to reveal the elaborate and delicately designed stocking tops - the kind that are meant to be seen. When she dragged her pelts across the stage, Zang was at his zenith in establishing a new dimension of chic. Following that was a few Fortuny pleated metallic ensembles, including an enchantingly futuristic column of iridescent black and gold Fortuny pleated silk. with an intricately detailed metal yoke across the the upper chest, supporting a massive collar and flanged sleeves. The dress could have been made by Mario Fotuny himself. Magnificent. Another beautifully tailored and proportioned black velvet men’s suit immediately preceded the finale look, another daring experiment in long-over-short proportions involving a luxuriously-cut bronze-colored duchess satin cape with the New York Skyline applied in black cut-out metal, that opens to reveal a strapless black silk ottoman mini-dress. And it is unanimous: Zang is triumphant again, infusing wit, charm, style and his pure love of the art into every ensemble, and leaving the spectators breathless. The master.

Written by Stephen MacMiallan Moser, Photography by EPHPHOTO courtesy of Zang Toi.

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